Before I’ll start I have to give a proper disclosure. I don’t like the 80’s. There, I said it. Though born in the decade, I always find it somewhat redundant. I was never sympathetic of Gorbachev, East Germany, Boom Boxes, Pac-Man and Big hair style. Oh and Israeli “Middle Eastern” Steakhouses. The Israeli oriental steak house is somewhat an import of an Arabic style of serving with the simplest way of beef cooking – grilled. The 80’s were a blossom for these Middle Eastern restaurants which always included a generous amount of pre-made salads and a medium-level grilled kebabs or skewers.
Since the 80’s, the amount of Eastern restaurants had decreased as more modern kitchens entered the culinary space, though some still survive. Imagine the surprise we had when we saw a new such restaurant opened just now at the heart of Tel Aviv.
“Ha’achim” (The Brothers), located at Ibn Gabirol, is an effort to take the Middle Eastern cuisine and bring it to our times, along with an up-to-date urban setting, cumbersome salads and upgraded types of beef.
The bunch of salads that came to the table weren’t necessarily better than the common Middle Eastern salads. The Tehini was quite good and the black lentils salad was very nice, but the carrot salad was mediocre, the grapes and onions were too cumbersome for us and the red cabbage and truffles (?!) was simply a weird combination.
Having mixed feelings for the salads, we were happy that at least our skewers were not bad at all. A skewer of sweetbread was juicy, very well grilled and generally very good while a Beef Fillet skewer was nice but didn’t stand out.
Skipping the desserts (being afraid as desserts in Middle Eastern restaurants are not usually recommended), we decided that, although “The Brothers” presents a nice value-for-money, the attempt to bring the 80’s to our time didn’t succeed in this case. Though not really comparable, Haj Kahil (or Al Reda in Nazareth) is better suited for those who look for true Middle-Eastern food.
The Check Please (2 people)
2X Salads (including refill) – 44 NIS
Beef Fillet Skewer – 36 NIS
Sweetbread Skewer – 35 NIS
Soda Water – 10 NIS
Nestea (w/ refill) – 13 NIS
All in all: 138 NIS
Food: Middle Eastern
Location: Ibn Gabirol
The Cizer-Kobrinsky Scale:
Contact Details: The Brothers
Address: 12 Ibn Gabirol, Tel Aviv | Phone: 03-6917171
Opening Hours: Sunday – Saturday 12:00-Late
http://www.rest.co.il/sites/Default.asp?txtRestID=12031 (No English)